We continued on our way to Dingle and along the way were greeted by pods of curious porpoises, that came from every direction, like kids to an ice-cream truck on a hot day, using the wake of the ship to catch a ride and jump in the air. We also saw a whale blow, most likely a minke whale. It swam along parallel to our ship and eventually we lost sight of it. Easy to do in the size of the swells and waves we were experiencing.
And then we arrived in Dingle where we boarded the zodiacs, and were then taken by bus to Dingle Bay from the bay immediately north of it as the weather conditions would not permit us to enter Dingle Bay by ship. (I told you it was bad! Even the guests who have been to Antartica said that this was worst than their “ride” to the white continent!) But I am privileged to be here and experience the ocean and all of its tempers - well almost all the tempers, I will pass on any tantrum it chooses to have beyond this.
As we approach Dingle, the gentle rolling hills appear to be a patchwork quilt of patterned, padded, smooth, varied shades of green fabric that blanket the coastline making it appear comforting and warm. The seams between the patches are raised and look to be almost fluffy form the distance.
As we walk toward Lake Annascaul the wind picks up and I couldn’t help but think of this Irish proverb…
An Old Irish Blessing
May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind always be at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face,
and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
This proverb makes more sense each minute as you immerse yourself in the land, as what seems to be a fairytale land is harsh un-arrable soil where beautiful, luring carnivorous plants supplement their meals with insects, lichens of all types (lichens are a symbiotic relationship between a fungi and an algae) cling to any available surface and trees secure their roots to rocks and boulders. The hedges between the patches are made of thorny bushes, wind-beaten willows and scraggly ivies and the soil is boggy and spongy. Of course people would wish each other an easier life and God taking care of them!
Our walk led us to Annascaul Lake. A lake formed by glaciers that had left a classic U shaped pass in the mountain all the way to the Dingle Bay. And the uphill return was a treat as all the plants, animals and geology I had seen on our way in was relived like a rewinded movie to be enjoyed twice.
The reality of the western coast of Ireland is amazing. The people who lived here had to be fierce, resilient, and that led us to the South Pole Inn. A pub started by Tom Crean, who at around ten ran away from home to enlist in Queen Victoria’s Royal Navy. He told the recruiting officer he was 16 and gave up life on land for life at sea. Tom Crean made a huge contribution to the exploration of Antarctica, serving on three of the four major British expeditions. He survived the harshness of the terrain for months and years at a time, taking on his own rescue missions and those of his comrades into his own hands. It is said that he was able to do what he did because of where he grew up. And legend has it that he was a giant of a man. When he held a pint of beer, you could not see the glass, that is how large his hands were.
If you want to read more about this amazing man… http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Crean_(explorer)
We headed back to the bay to board the zodiacs to return to the ship for dinner. We were greeted at the dock by gentle rain and a beautiful rainbow arched over the sky behind us saying goodbye to our first stop in Ireland. A perfect, gentle ending, but then as if tricked by a leprechaun, the wind picked up, the rainbow went away and the ride back in the zodiacs was a drencher…
After dinner we were treated to music by Sharon Shannon on the ship. Beautiful Irish music that makes your heart dance. We definitely found the pot of gold. Must be luck of the Irish I tell you.